Sections
Worms and worming
Vaccinations
Tapeworms
Advice on Box Resting horses
Pregnancy and Scanning
Teeth care
Mud fever care
The "New Horse" advice


Information and advice on worms and worming horses
The internal parasites, which affect the horse
1. Large redworms - These live in the gut and have a larval stage that migrates through the blood vessels that supply the gut.

2. Small redworms - These live in the large bowel and have a larval stage that can involve a period of 'hibernation' (encysted) in the lining of the gut.


3. Tapeworm - These live in the gut and are generally found at the junction between the small bowel and caecum. The horse picks them up by eating an intermediate host, the Orbatid mite, a forage mite that lives on the pasture and stable bedding.

4. Bots - The larval stage of the bot fly that usually attach to the stomach wall, andsometimes other parts of the digestive tract, these have been associated with ulcers in the stomach.
5. Lungworms - These live in the airways of the lungs. Donkeys are a particularly rich source of pasture contamination if not regularly treated with an appropriate wormer.


When choosing your wormer, check the following:
- What time of year is it and therefore what are the predominant internal parasites that I need to be treating
- If it is during the grazing season which type of wormer did I use last grazing season
- What is the weight of my horse? Most of us under estimate the weight of our horses and consequently under dose the amount of wormer needed. All wormers are safe and it is best to err on the side of slight over dosage than under dose.

Types of Wormer Available:
Ivermectin (This includes 'Panomec', 'Eqvalan' & 'Furexel'). These are effective against all the internal parasites except tapeworm. These are not as good as, e.g. 'Panacur 'Equine Guard' against the encysted larval stages of the small redworm.
Pyrantel (This includes 'Strongid-P' & 'Pyratape'). These are good against most adult internal parasites, except bots, lungworm and the encysted larval stage of the small redworm. They are the only type of horse wormer that will treat tapeworms but must be given at double the normal dose.
Fenbendazole (This includes 'Panacur' or 'Panacur Guard'). This kills large and small redworms, and if you give the appropriate dose for 5 days it treats the encysted larval stage of the small redworm. It does not kill tapeworms or bots and only poorly kills lungworms.
Moxidectin (This includes 'Equest') This kills all internal parasites except tapeworm. Although the most expensive of the wormers it has a persistent effect (3 months) making it the most economical. Recent evidence suggests that it may also be effective against some encysted small redworm although it is not clear yet whether it is as effective for this purpose as Panacur Equine Guard.


Year Planner
There are certain key times of the year when specific wormers must be used if you areto achieve the best optimum worm control.
SEPTEMBER - A double dose of pryrantel type wormer (Strongid-P or Pyratape) to kill off any tapeworms.
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER - A 5-day course of fenbendazole wormer (Panacur equine guard) to kill off any encysted (hibernating) small redworms and any migrating large redworms.
DECEMBER - A single dose of an ivermectin wormer ('Panomec', 'Eqvalan' or 'Furexel') to kill off any bots in the stomach. This must be given after the first good frosts as these kill off the bot fly, which lays its eggs in the horses coat during late summer/autumn, which are subsequently licked off the coat and eaten. You can pick these off when grooming.
FEBRUARY - A second 5-day course of Panacur Equine Guard to high risk horses, e.g. young and old horses or those kept in multi-horse environment.
MARCH TO SEPTEMBER - The grazing season. It is a good policy to rotate the four types of wormer one year to the next, so as to help reduce the risk of the worms becoming resistant to them, e.g. year 1 pyrantel, year 2 ivermectins, year 3 fenbendazole, year 4 'Equest', year 5 back to pyrantel and so on.

The interval between worming is dependent on which type of wormer you are using. Ivermectins last about 8 weeks, fenbendazole and pyrantel last for about 6 weeks, & 'Equest' lasts for 13 weeks.
All new horses should be treated with a 5-day course of Panacur Equine Guard, followed on the 6th day with a double dose of a pyrantel type wormer. Ideally the horse should be kept off the pasture until day 8 but if not possible restrict it to a small area of pasture and pick up all its dung for the first 7 days.

Pasture Management
Pasture management is vital in order to avoid build up of worm eggs and larvae on the pasture, arising from the dung of infected horses. Picking up the dung is easiest on small paddocks. On larger areas of pasture, scattering the dung with chain harrows during dry weather will help kill the eggs and larvae by desiccation. Resting the pasture from horses for at least 5 months and the grazing of other species of animal, e.g. cattle and sheep that will harbour different worms not infective to horses is also a good policy as they effectively 'hoover up' the resident horse worm burden which does not do them any harm.


VACCINATION - AN OWNER'S GUIDE
What is vaccination?
A vaccine is an injection that stimulates an immune response against a specific infection. Vaccines are prepared by growing the infecting virus or bacteria in the laboratory and extracting from them the essential surface components that stimulate an immune response in the horse. Vaccines therefore do not contain living material and can never 'cause' the infection they are administered to combat.
A vaccination programme will ensure that your horse has maximum protection against the infections in the U.K. that can cause serious (and sometimes fatal) disease. It will usually mean two injections at the start of the course followed by (usually) annual boosters.
Do I have to have my horse vaccinated?
The great majority of horses in the UK are vaccinated against Equine Influenza and Tetanus and a growing number against Equine Herpes Virus. There are other vaccinations available, see below. An un-vaccinated horse could contract one of these illnesses, causing an interruption of its training and competition programme for a long time, or worse may result in a severely debilitated horse or even death if complications develop.
If you wish to show, race, or enter your horse in competitions it must be vaccinated against influenza according to the regulations of the organisation or event committee. This will require production of an up to date vaccination certificate signed by a veterinary surgeon. Many equestrian premises require flu vaccination for all horses resident there. Events held at these premises e.g. Pony Club camps will also require vaccination of participating horses and ponies. In addition most insurance companies require that insured horses are vaccinated and may require evidence of this when you make a claim.
What conditions can be vaccinated against?
The two most important vaccinations that all horses should receive are influenza and tetanus:

TETANUS (Lockjaw)
Tetanus is caused by a bacterium Clostridium tetani that is found in soil and horse faeces. It enters the body by an open wound or in some cases via the intestinal tract. Even small wounds can allow Clostridium tetani contamination and, because the incubation period is as long as 7-21 days, the wound has usually healed by the time the first signs of the disease are apparent. Often owners are not even aware that their horse has received a wound, or thought it minor or of no importance and yet their horse develops tetanus. The signs of tetanus are:
" Vague stiffness in the head and limbs progressing to a reluctance to move
" Spasms in the muscles of the head and neck resulting in difficulty chewing, flared nostrils and a wide-eyed expression
" Trembling progressing to violent, whole body spasms in response to sudden movements or noise
Approximately 90% of unvaccinated horses that develop tetanus die. In the small number of horses that do recover, intensive veterinary treatment and nursing care is required for a period of about 6 weeks.

EQUINE INFLUENZA ('flu')
This is a highly contagious, viral disease of the respiratory system caused by different strains of influenza virus. A horse contracts the virus either by contact with an infected horse or indirectly by contaminated air/environment. Infected horses incubate the virus for only 1-3 days before developing symptoms, which is why outbreaks of influenza spread so rapidly. The symptoms of influenza can include:
- A rise in temperature up to 41 degrees C (106 degrees F) for 1-3 days
- A harsh dry cough of sudden onset that persists for 2-3 weeks or more
- Clear nasal discharge progressing to thick yellow discharge
- Lethargy, loss of performance for weeks or months
- Loss of appetite
The disease can develop into life-threatening bronchitis or pneumonia. When horses recover from influenza they can be left in a debilitated state making them more susceptible to secondary infections. Outbreaks of influenza are most common when large numbers of young horses are brought together in stressful conditions e.g. sales or shows. Because the infecting strain of the virus tends to vary from time to time, vaccine manufactures are constantly updating their vaccines to ensure full protection.
Is vaccination harmful?
No, vaccination is not harmful. Millions of horses have been vaccinated against tetanus and influenza over many years and the number of adverse reactions reported has been insignificant. Of these reported adverse reactions most are only transient local injection site reactions or muscle stiffness.
The risk of your horse suffering serious or fatal consequences of tetanus and influenza is many, many times greater than the risk of your horse having an adverse reaction to vaccination.

Other Vaccines Available:
Equine herpesvirus (EHV). This virus causes respiratory disease and loss of performance in competition horses, and abortion in pregnant mares. EHV respiratory disease tends to occur in groups of horses kept together e.g. in point to point yards and competition yards, where it may cause a major interruption of the training and racing programme. We strongly recommend that all competition horses be vaccinated against EHV.
Equine viral arteritis (EVA). This virus causes respiratory disease, swollen legs and abortion. Infected apparently healthy stallions spread the virus at mating. These stallions may remain infected for life. For this reason we recommend that all breeding stallions are protected against this virus by vaccination
Equine rotavirus. This virus causes diarrhoea in young foals. The foals can be protected by vaccinating pregnant mares.

Can I still ride my horse after vaccination?
You should try to reduce stress (e.g. heavy exercise) on your horse for 24-48 hours after vaccination. This will further reduce the very small chance of an adverse reaction. Normal hacking etc. can continue uninterrupted.

My horse hates needles - is there a way around this?
Unfortunately no. It is important to ensure your horse is vaccinated. Very small needles are used and vaccination takes only a matter of seconds. We have lots of experience of vaccinating awkward horses!

What is the appropriate vaccination schedule?
Influenza
The manufacturers' recommendations for injection intervals will satisfy the requirements of the Jockey Club, FEI and all other organisations and show committees. These intervals are as follows
Primary course 2 injections 4-6 weeks apart
First booster at six months after 2nd primary vaccination
Subsequent boosters every 12 months.
The vaccination schedules set by the Jockey Club and most other bodies set wider intervals for the start-up course, i.e.
Primary course 2 injections 21-92 days apart
First booster 150-215 days after 2nd primary vaccination
Subsequent boosters within 365 days of preceding booster
The FEI schedule omits the 6-month booster although for satisfactory protection it is invariably given at this time.
Note that the Jockey Club and FEI regulations state that these injections cannot be given in the 7 days immediately before a competition or entry into the competition stables
Tetanus
Most influenza vaccinations also contain the tetanus vaccine combined in a single injection and if you follow the vaccination schedule using the combined vaccine your horse will also be protected against tetanus.
When using separate vaccines, the schedule for tetanus vaccination is usually as follows:
Primary course 2 injections 4-6 weeks apart
First booster within 12 months of the 2nd primary injection
Subsequent boosters only needed every 2 years
Vaccinated pregnant mares should by given a tetanus booster in the last 4-6 weeks which will provide the foal with some protection through the mare's milk for the first 6-12 weeks of life.
New born foals are frequently given an injection of tetanus antitoxin (an 'antidote' to the tetanus infection) as soon as possible to provide temporary cover for 3-4 weeks. Regular tetanus vaccination can start at 3 months old.

Q- TAPEWORMS: SHOULD I WORRY?
Now that an effective treatment for tapeworms is available, clients often ask whether they should be treating their horses. Let us review the evidence:
- Do they cause any harm? A study was conducted recently at a horse abattoir near Bristol in which the digestive tracts of 20 randomly selected horses were examined for the presence of tapeworms. Tapeworms in the caecum of 16 of them, either just a few worms (1-20 worms in nine horses) or large numbers (more than 100 worms in seven horses). In every case where tapeworms were present there was scarring of the intestinal tract. In some cases the pathological changes were severe.
- How common are they? Several UK surveys have shown that tapeworm infection is common and about two-thirds of horses are infected. Infection is present on most equine premises. Tapeworm eggs are shed in faeces and are ingested by tiny forage mites present in the herbage mat. They develop in the mite for four months, and the life cycle is completed by horses inadvertently ingesting infected mites while grazing. Spread therefore readily occurs between grazing horses.
- What are the ill-effects? Tapeworms attach to the wall of the caecum and cluster principally around the opening between the ileum and the caecum, the ileo-caecal valve. Scarring of this valve limits the extent to which it can open to allow ingested food to pass through. In severe infections the average size of the opening of this valve in one study was reduced from 4cm in normal horses to 1cm. Failure of this opening to permit normal flow of partially digested food material will cause pain (colic), and potentially may lead to more serious problems such has intussusceptions (telescoping of one portion of the bowel into another) or complete obstruction and consequent overfilling of the ileum (ileal impaction)
- Do tapeworms cause colic? Scientists at Liverpool University recently asked vets to collect a blood sample from every case of colic they treated and at the same time to collect a second sample from a normal horse similar age, breed and sex on the same premises. Using a blood test developed for the diagnosis of tapeworm infections, the scientists found that the less severe colic cases were eight times more likely to be infected with tapeworms than normal horses. In more severe cases of colic caused by impaction of the ileum, affected horses were 26 times more likely to harbour tapeworms.
- Is there a case for routine treatment for tapeworms? The available evidence strongly suggests that the answer is YES. It presents an opportunity for horse owners to make a positive effort to reduce the risks of colic occurring.
Tapeworm treatment should be incorporated into to your annual worming programme. A minimum of a single annual treatment, at any time of the year is necessary although two treatments, in the spring and autumn, are preferred. The following drugs are available:
- Pyrantel (Strongid-P or Pyratape) This must be given at double the normal dose used for redworm control
- Praziquantel. This is available on its own (Equitape) or in combination with ivermectin (Eqvalan Duo, Equimax). The combination product allows redworms and tapeworms to be treated in a single treatment. Praziquantel is probably a more effective tapeworm treatment than pyrantel.

Q- BOX REST: HELPING YOUR HORSE TO COPE
Why box rest?
It is common in human medicine, especially in the case of limb injuries, to confine the patient to bed for a period of time in order that the damaged tissues can be immobilised while healing takes place. Unfortunately this is not possible in the horse so the next best thing is box rest. Uncontrolled movement significantly impairs the healing of tissues. Wound edges move, leading to opening of the wound and the formation of exuberant granulation tissue (proud flesh) which can delay healing for months. Tendon and ligament healing is disrupted leading to large unstable scarring of the affected structure which then has an increased likelihood of breaking down when the horse returns to work. Bandaging (especially of the foot) becomes loosened and dirty leading to contamination of the bandaged structure.
Types of box rest
- Simple confinement to a loose box: the commonest form
- Confinement to a loose box and physiotherapy, e.g. limb stretching exercise performed by the owner/physio/vet
- Confinement to a loose box and tethering in the box: this is to prevent the horse from lying down and is only rarely used, for example in cases of pelvic fractures and in some severe knee wounds
- Confinement to a small yard or very small paddock: this allows limited movement by walking only and is useful in the rehabilitation stage
- Box rest followed by walking in hand: this allows controlled mobilisation of healing tissues. The tissues are loaded in a controlled fashion allowing gradual strengthening. In tendon injuries controlled loading ensures that the tendon fibres heal along the lines of stress, thereby reducing the risk of a second breakdown.
'But my horse will go mad if its confined…'
Experience shows that even the most highly-strung horse will readily adapt to box rest provided some simple rules are followed. Owner's fears in this regard are often unfounded. Most horses after a few days or a week if correctly managed will 'switch off' and resign themselves to their fate. A few management changes may be necessary to help the horse to adjust to its new regime. Depending on your circumstances and the facilities available you may or may not be able to satisfy these recommendations
- Provide equine company. Even simply putting a retired family pony in an adjacent loose box, especially in situations where the confined horse can see its companion all of the time (use stable partitions which are not solid) will contribute enormously to the well-being of the confined horse. Alternatively other horses you own can occupy the adjacent box on a shift system. This is extremely effective. Sometimes a pony or other quiet horse can be borrowed from friends as company. In the later stages of the confinement period the pony and confined horse can be kept together in a large yard.
- Reduce hard feed to a minimal amount. The best feed for box-rested horses is chaff to which a handful of nuts or coarse mix is added. Be generous in feeding chaff as the act of feeding seems to provide some psychological comfort for the horse and occupies it for part of the day. A full bucket of chaff (e.g. Dengie HiFi) twice or three times a day is ideal. Horses with severe wounds or laminitis may need additional feeding: your veterinary surgeon will advise.
- Ensure continuous access to hay/haylage. This may require the use of two hay-nets at once.
- Another useful way of occupying stabled horses is to use the Equiball. This is a large ball in which some hard feed is placed. By rolling the ball the horse causes small amounts of food to fall out of the holes at the side. Horses will spend hours playing with the device. Research has shown that the incidence of stable vices is significantly reduced when the Equiball is used.
- Minimise disturbance. Horses are more likely to become anxious if adjacent horses are being taken away to be turned out or ridden especially if at irregular intervals. If possible stable the horse well away from places of equine activity (stable yards, arenas etc.). While in theory yard activities will distract and divert the confined horse the disturbance caused may outweigh the advantages
- Be careful when mucking out. All veterinarians can recall occasions when box-rested horses have barged past or even jumped over wheelbarrows or suddenly 'exploded' when tethered outside the stable (often for the most innocuous reason) and run free until caught, thereby undoing the benefits of weeks of confinement. It is strongly recommended that when mucking out the horse is first shut in an adjacent loose box.
- Remove the shoes. Pick out the feet once daily to prevent thrush developing. Have the feet trimmed every 6-8 weeks unless the veterinary surgeon advises otherwise.
- Sedative drugs given by mouth are occasionally used in the early stages to help the horse to adapt.

How Long in the Box?
The duration of the period of confinement varies enormously depending on the reason why the horse is being box rested. This may be a short as a week in the case of simple injuries or foot abscesses, or as long as six months in the case of pelvic fractures and other major injuries. Your veterinary surgeon will advise you of the appropriate length in your case.
Hand Walking
The controlled mobilisation offered by hand walking is frequently used during the rehabilitation phase. Horses, which have been confined for even a short period, may be very excitable when walked in hand so some simple rules must be followed.
- Always use a bridle (rather than a head collar) or preferably a Chiffney bit.
- Use a long lead rope (e.g. a lunge line). Horses will often rear and buck if startled and it is essential that the handler can stand well clear of the horse while remaining in control
- Be prepared for an 'explosion'
- Consider sedation for the first few occasions. We can supply an oral sedative.
- Choose a quiet route and time. Avoid obvious 'inflammatory' situations e.g. barking dogs etc. In the first instance just walking the horse round a yard or arena may be preferable to using a road.
- Some horses are safer if ridden rather than walked. This may not be appropriate for certain injuries so please follow our instructions.
Turning Out
The temptation to take the horse out 'just for a few mouthfuls of grass' or to turn it out ('it will only just graze quietly') must be resisted, as all the benefits of the box rest period can be undone in a few minutes. Even the most stoical horse can explode after a period of confinement.
When the horse is finally to be turned out we strongly recommend that the horse be sedated for the initial turnout. Prepare carefully for the event. There should be no horses in the field or in the adjacent fields to 'wind up' your horse. The horse should be hungry (starve overnight) so that it will put its head down and graze straight away. The application of boots to all four legs is prudent. Oral sedation is often too unpredictable for this purpose. An intravenous sedative injection is much preferred, as it is very reliable.

Q- Pregnancy checks - when should they be done?
Pregnancy loss without any overt signs is not at all uncommon and therefore failure to return to heat after covering cannot be taken as confirmation that the mare is in foal or has maintained her pregnancy. It is essential that mares receive one or more veterinary examinations for pregnancy, usually by ultrasound scanning
How do we test for pregnancy?
a) Ultrasound scanning: This is by far the commonest and most preferred method of determining pregnancy. Scanning is generally very accurate, causes no more than minor discomfort to the mare, and allows the identification of twin pregnancies.
Your mare will normally have been scanned at least twice (at 16 days and again at 25-30 days) at the stud. A third examination at 6 weeks is advisable, as early foetal foal loss up to this date is not uncommon. Checking the mare again on or around the 1st October is important for two reasons
- Many stud fees are due at this time and are paid if the mare is confirmed in foal by 1st October
- It is as well to know whether your mare is still pregnant so that you can plan her winter feeding regime
If your mare has been returned from the stud without any veterinary confirmation of pregnancy it is essential that she is checked at least once by us to confirm that she is definitely in foal.
b) Blood testing: Blood tests are occasionally used instead of scanning but in general are less accurate (false positives can occur), do not allow the identification of twin pregnancies, must be carried out over a narrower time frame, are more expensive and do not produce an instant result.
When should brood mares be wormed?
It is both safe and important to worm pregnant mares. In late pregnancy the mare's natural resistance to worms is lowered. At this time the number of worm eggs in the mare's droppings tends to rise and when these develop on the pasture they are an important source of redworm infection for the foal. In addition the threadworm Strongyloides westeri is passed through the mare's milk and is an occasional cause of diarrhoea in young foals.
Follow your normal worming regime.

What about vaccinations?
Keep up the mare's normal vaccination course against tetanus and 'flu. If the mare receives a booster vaccination 4 weeks prior to foaling the concentration of antibodies to these infections in the colostrum (first milk) will be significantly increased and the newborn foal will obtain immediate protection as soon as it suckles.
In addition we recommend that all pregnant mares be vaccinated against Equine Herpesvirus (EHV or virus abortion) at the 5th, 7th and 9th months of pregnancy. EHV is becoming an increasing problem in the U.K. Affected mares abort in late pregnancy or give birth to weak foals that die in the first few days of life. Vaccinating against EHV is money well spent.
Some studs require that pregnant mares are vaccinated against Rotavirus at the 8th, 9th and 10th month of pregnancy. This virus causes diarrhoea in young foals on large public studs. Protection for the foal is provided via the colostrum.
Routine foot and dental care
These are sadly neglected in many brood mares. Although most brood mares are unshod, regular trimming at 6-8 week intervals is important to prevent foot abscesses (gravel), which are all too common in mares with overgrown feet. Dental care is important too. Mares live on a largely forage-based diet, and each kilogram of hay requires 5000 chews before it is swallowed. To ensure that this feed is utilised with maximum efficiency and without discomfort to the mare it is essential the teeth are rasped annually, usually at the time of the 1st. October pregnancy check
What should I feed?
First eight months: Mares are commonly overfed during this period. Although forage (grass or hay/haylage) will meet the mare's energy (calorie) requirements at this stage she is likely to be deficient in good quality protein and some vitamins and minerals. A modest amount of stud cubes/stud mix should be therefore be fed but avoid allowing the mare to become over fat. In-foal mares with a foal at foot will need to be fed to meet their lactation requirements until weaning. We recommend you follow the feed company's advice.
Last three months: The foetus gains 65% of its bodyweight during this period. It is important therefore that a balanced ration is fed. A purpose-made brood mare diet (stud mix or stud cubes) will provide all of the necessary calories, protein, vitamins and minerals a mare needs to supply to her developing foetus. This should be fed in conjunction with good grass or hay/haylage. The amount to be fed will depend on the manufacturer's recommendations and the quality of the grass/hay available. The temptation to feed a home-mixed ration should be avoided, as it is very likely to be unbalanced and inappropriate for the mare and her foal.

Exercise
Mares in early pregnancy can be ridden lightly for the first 4-5 months. In late pregnancy mares should spend as much time out of doors as possible as exercise is important at this stage.

Q- TEETH - WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Lets start with a few key facts:
- Horses don't die of old age. At some stage a decision is made to painlessly end their lives often because they have developed progressive arthritis or because they are having difficulty keeping in good body condition because of dental problems. The latter are largely preventable if the teeth are regularly attended to, but this attention must start in early adulthood
- Teeth problems are very common in horses but the majority suffer in silence until their tolerance level is passed. Then symptoms such as resentment of the bit, abnormal head carriage, loss of suppleness, and back problems start to appear
- True quidding, involving expulsion of plugs of partially chewed hay -not grass or hard feed- is quite rare and always reflects serious dental disease. More commonly horses with dental problems masticate food less efficiently and although they may not appear to be thin, these horses are wasting feed.

What goes wrong?
The horse's head is essentially a huge chewing machine. While the incisor teeth at the front help the horse to graze, the 24 cheek teeth occupying most of a horse's head do the real work. A horse spends about 60% of the day eating, and will chew 15-25,000 times when consuming a 5kg net of hay, reducing the long stems to very short 2-5mm lengths before swallowing.
This amount of chewing causes enormous wear to the surface of the teeth but equine teeth, unlike ours, continue to erupt until horses are about 25 years old such that the rate of eruption matches the rate of wear. Equine teeth have in addition a very clever self-sharpening mechanism as they wear in that the softer dentine component of the teeth wears at a greater rate than the harder enamel, thereby progressively exposing narrow enamel ridges and ensuring that a rough surface remains.
But there is a design fault in horse's heads. The lower jaw is narrower from side to side in comparison with the upper such that the upper and corresponding lower teeth do not cover each other exactly. Consequently hard, unworn, enamel spikes develop where the upper and lower teeth do not make contact. In addition the chewing of hard feed requires must less side-to-side movement of the lower jaw than hay, accentuating the lack of wear.

So it follows that horses on relatively 'unnatural' diets (hard feed and restricted hay) suffer much more from sharp unworn teeth than say, moorland ponies on a sole diet of rough herbage.

Jaw movement
In addition to the side-to-side chewing action, the jawbone also alters position as the position of the head in relation to the neck changes. With the head elevated the jaw retracts, and conversely when the poll is flexed the lower jaw moves forwards. Any restriction of this forward movement, predominantly caused by enamel 'hooks' on the first upper and last lower cheek teeth jamming against the corresponding over- or underlying tooth, will make it very difficult for the horse to adopt the poll flexed 'dressage' posture unless it opens its mouth. This mouth-open posture is perceived as a 'resistance' and invariably prompts the trainer or rider to tighten the noseband. The horse consequently is in constant discomfort resulting in tension in the neck and ultimately in a back problem.

Bit comfort
Horses in discomfort from the bit will show resistance when the rider takes up a contact with the reins. This resistance may involve raising the head, trying to pull the reins from the rider's hands, showing reluctance to come down on the bit, being 'stiff' on one rein, jumping to one side of the jump etc. Some hard-pulling horses are running away from the discomfort caused by the bit. Any horse that shows resistance when ridden should have its mouth carefully examined. Most dental problems are easily fixed, often resulting in a dramatic improvement in the horse's acceptance of the bit
In addition to causing pressure on the tongue and bars, the bit pushes the soft tissues of the cheeks against the cheek teeth. Wolf teeth are variable-sized 'extra' teeth found in 30-50% of horses just in front of the first upper cheek tooth, exactly where these soft tissues are pushed by the bit. As discomfort is likely, removal is strongly advised.
As a further aid to bitting comfort we often also re-shape the leading edges of the first upper and lower cheek teeth (see diagram) to create more room for the cheek soft tissues. This re-shaping is called creating a bit seat, and may dramatically alter the comfort level of a bitted horse, causing relaxation of the poll and better acceptance of the bit.

Solving dental problems
The last cheek teeth erupt at four years of age. By five years the abnormal wear has started to begin so it follows therefore that every horse five years and older has its teeth checked by us at least annually. If done regularly only minor attention is normally all that is required. Sharp enamel points are removed with a selection of rasps, although occasionally motorised grinding equipment is required for more extensive abnormalities.
For adequate examination of the teeth it is essential that a full mouth gag be used. This allows the vet to see and feel every single tooth, and the tissues of the mouth, to detect any problems that need correction. More importantly the vet can also choose the appropriate equipment for each abnormality and especially conform at the end that the problem has been solved.

Do you need a 'horse dentist'?
Good dental care requires lots of experience and an extensive range of equipment. Equine vets are able to sedate a horse if necessary and of course have the full range of expertise and equipment if cases need to be followed up.
If you use a dental technician make sure they have passed the examinations entitling them to be listed in the BEVA/British Veterinary Dental Association's Approved list of dental technicians.
When were your horse's teeth last checked? Is he/she suffering in silence?

Q- MUD FEVER _ GETTING IT RIGHT
What is mud fever?
This is a very common bacterial infection of the lower limbs of horses. White legs are especially susceptible and the condition is most commonly seen in the winter months particularly when the weather is wet. Wetting of the limbs seems to be an essential predisposing factor.
The infection often starts in the skin folds at the back of the pastern ('cracked heels') and spreads from there. The condition may also arise anywhere on the skin of the pastern or the cannon region. Characteristic thick painful hairy scabs develop and in some cases the lower leg may swell. Itchiness does not occur.
A related condition known as rain scald or weatherbeat affects the skin of the back and croup.
Both conditions are easily treated provided some simple rules are followed.

'I've tried everything but I can't seem to get rid of it...'
This is a complaint we often hear on our rounds. The reasons for treatment failure are likely to be some or all of these
- Attempting to treat the disease without first removing all of the scabs overlying the lesions. No therapeutic agent is capable of penetrating scabby material
- Using treatments which are essentially preventative (usually barrier creams of various sorts, often containing weak antiseptic agents) with minimal therapeutic effects instead of those that kill the causal bacteria (antibiotic creams and antibacterial skin washes)
- Treating only part of the affected area, or more commonly stopping treatment before the condition has completely resolved
- Failing to close clip the affected area. This will hugely improve the efficacy of treatment. Because horse clippers are too large and coarse to clip the hair of the heels adequately, fine (dog) clippers must be used
Removing the scabs
Anything which will soften the scabs will aid their removal. Scab removal without first softening is often difficult, and may be strongly resented by the horse. An Animalintex poultice applied for 24 hours is useful. Alternatively a generous application of baby oil, 'Dermisol' or 'Sudocrem' applied to the skin, covered loosely with Clingfilm and covered in turn with a stable bandage, will often have a marked softening effect after 1-3 days. It is essential that the Clingfilm and bandage continue to floor level at the heels (reinforce with a few turns of duct tape) as otherwise these will ride up the pastern as it flexes leaving the lower skin crease untreated.
In some cases the Clingfilm etc. treatment will have to be repeated daily for a few days until every scab can be dislodged. In spite of these softening treatments many bad cases will have to be sedated by us to allow complete removal.
Once the scabs have been softened the affected area should be washed with an antibacterial scrub such as Pevidine or Hibiscrub. The legs are wetted with warm water; the scrub is applied neat and worked in well to loosen any surface debris and scabs. The scrub is then left in place for 10 minutes (to allow a more effective bacterial kill); the legs are washed and thoroughly dried with a clean towel. This might be a good opportunity to close clip if it has not already been done.
Dealing with rain scald
Removing the scabs from the topline is slightly easier than from the limbs as they tend to be less tenacious. Wet the skin as before, apply neat Hibiscrub and work in well with a plastic curry comb, all the time trying to dislodge the scabs. Using one's fingernails to remove the scabs is also effective. Leave the Hibiscrub in contact for ten minutes, then rinse and dry with a clean towel. This treatment may need to be repeated daily for several days to dislodge all of the scabs. Healing generally then occurs quickly and no further medicaments are usually necessary. The back should be kept dry until fully healed.
What if the leg is swollen?
Swelling of the leg, marked sensitivity to touch and the development of any lameness usually indicate that the infection has breached the full thickness of the skin. These cases will not respond to local treatment alone. They must have antibiotics by mouth or by injection, administered by a vet.

The day after
After the first treatment it is likely that some scabs will re-form overnight but these will be softer and easy to dislodge with a Hibiscrub or Pevidine wash. The raw areas as before are then dabbed with a tissue, and the antibiotic ointment re-applied. In bad cases we may recommend antiseptic washes twice daily for the first few days. Over the next few days the lesions will gradually heal but it is essential that treatment continues until the lesions have completely healed and the affected area is covered by healthy skin.
Preventing further attacks
Although the condition is traditionally associated with mud coating the legs, many out-wintered horses living in muddy fields happily go through the whole winter without developing any signs. The inevitable conclusion is that it is not mud but constant wetting of the skin that is the main cause. This theory is supported by the observation that mud fever if often rife in those yards where the legs are washed frequently, and virtually absent from yards where the legs are almost never washed. It is always better to leave the mud to dry naturally on the legs (leg wraps or bandages applied over the mud will 'wick' away the moisture) and then brush off the next day.
Leg wraps are now available which the manufacturers claim keep the lower legs dry in horses at grass. It is likely however that deep mud will defeat even the best wraps.
If you must wash the legs then you must dry also. Sulphur powder or 'Keratex Mud Shield' powder sprinkled generously on the heels is very effective (even when sprinkled on wet legs) probably because these have a marked drying effect.
Although it is traditional in winter to leave the lower legs unclipped as a preventive this is probably illusory. Indeed mud fever may be more common in horses with hairier legs, due in part to the longer time these take to dry out and to the difficulty in spotting early lesions.
Waterproofing the lower limbs, the heels especially, before exercise or turn out is good practice. Thick creams such as zinc and castor oil cream, 'Sudocrem' or many of the barrier creams available from saddlers are effective. Udder cream although popular is a bit too thin for the job and hence is not very long lasting. In order to avoid getting greasy hands (and tack) every time you apply the barrier you can use a cut-down paint brush to apply it.
A New Zealand rug will help to prevent rain scald although cases do occur even with the most expensive rugs. There is a suspicion that in mild weather condensation of sweat under thick waterproof rugs may cause the condition to develop even though the rain has not penetrated
Spot the problem early
- Mud fever: It is useful to get into the habit of running the fingers upwards against the direction of the hair at the back of the pastern every few days to detect the very small scabs indicating an early problem. If treated immediately these small lesions will respond very quickly.
- Rain scald: In out-wintered horses the New Zealand rug should be removed at least weekly to check underneath for any early rain scald lesions, chafing by the straps etc.
Could it be something else?
If in spite of this advice you are still struggling to clear up these conditions you need to seek veterinary advice. There are a number of other conditions that may mimic mud fever and it is important that these are considered in refractory cases. In addition there is a suspicion that long-term treatment with certain substances can induce a local 'allergic' response, and you may inadvertently be making the problem worse.
Summer Mud Fever
We have recently recognised a form of mud fever, invariably affecting the skin of the back of the pastern, which occurs during the summer and appears unrelated to wetting of the limbs. The scabs are characteristically red in colour and very tenacious. If left untreated the skin of the affected area may slough. It is unclear what is the cause of his condition. There is a suspicion that it may be related to sunlight exposure. Although treatment is similar to conventional mud fever it is often difficult and prolonged.

Q- YOUR NEW HORSE
The following are a few tips that you might find useful as you get to know your new horse
INSURANCE
Although an additional expense on top of the purchase price of the horse, the importance of ensuring some form of insurance cover cannot be overstated. Approximately one in three veterinary fees policies is subject to a claim every year. In other words if you own your new horse for three years it is likely that you will make at least one veterinary fees claim during this period. Remember the cost of colic surgery; a lameness investigation or even the treatment of a minor injury can be substantial. We are happy to pass on our experiences, good and bad, of any insurance companies you may be considering.
VACCINATION
Unless we already have done this for you, check that the vaccination status is correct. If the horse does not have a vaccination certificate it is safest to assume that it has not been correctly vaccinated (if at all) and a vaccination course should be started without delay. If the horse does have a certificate, check that the vaccinations have been done correctly at the appropriate time intervals. See the vaccination information here for the correct intervals. If you are unsure whether or not your horse has been properly vaccinated please phone the Clinic.
WORMING
Where possible you should establish from the seller when the horse was last wormed and what worming drug was used. As a general rule new arrivals should be wormed on arrival and housed for 48 hours before turning out.
SHOEING
It is worth obtaining from the seller the name and telephone number of the farrier who has hitherto been shoeing the horse in order that any information on particular shoeing issues (for example frequency of shoeing, types of shoes tried before etc) can be passed on to your own farrier.
TEETH
All horses five years old and upwards should have their teeth checked annually by us and any necessary remedial action taken.